I was born in 1969 in Mafikeng, South Africa and after Matric went to study nursing in Pretoria. I became a registered nurse and operating room nurse, practising until 1997.
I have always been very creative minded and learnt to do sewing, ceramic work and stained glass.
In 2006 I have started taking an art class at local art teacher Kathryn van Schalkwyk, learning the basic principles of art and drawing. I joined the Watercolour Society of South Africa in 2007 and took part in their exhibitions and learnt a lot from workshops organised by the society and achieved New Signature status in 2011 and became an associate of the society in 2013.
I have been the chairperson of the Polokwane branch of the Watercolour society and Art society of Africa since 2009.
I am very fond of watercolour and I enjoy the easy flow of the paint in the water and all the wonderful patterns it creates on its own while drying. I got to meet well-known artist Hazel Soan and Local artist Richard Rennie and got inspired to learn more about watercolour.
I have held a few solo exhibitions in my holiday town Struisbaai as well as exhibitions in the picturesque village Haenertsburg in Limpopo.
I have been working in watercolour, oil, acrylic, pastel and other mediums.
Most of my work is inspired by my love for nature. I enjoy most painting flowers and trees but I am also fascinated by drawing people.
I have been a member of the International Watercolour Society (IWS) which is an online platform for artists, and I am taking every opportunity to take part in competitions and events hosted by them.
I have recently moved to Paarl in the Western Cape where I have opened my small gallery and studio.
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Step 1: Basic drawing of the succulent is done with a 3B pencil
Step 2: Highlights on leave edges are covered with masking flued.
Step3: Look carefully on your reference photo where the shadows are and paint all shadow areas with Ultramarine blue.
Step 4: Sunlit areas on the leaves and ceramic pot is painted with any of the 3 cool colours. I have used Aureolin yellow on the leaves and a mix of the permanent rose, phthalo blue and Aureolin on the ceramic pot. A grey can be mixed with those 3 colours without making mud.
Step 5: Start adding colour in the shady areas with your warm colours, Indian yellow, Permanent Alizarin crimson and Ultramarine blue. A beautiful dark grey can be achieved with the 3 warm colours and light and dark tones are achieved.
Step 6: Continue to fill in the dark sides of the leaves with warm colours and sunlit parts with your cool ones. Make sure you achieve a range of mid-tones between the very dark side and the highlights. Look careful at the leaves and do not paint all leaves green as you will find if you look carefully you will see reds and purple and brown in the leaves. Adding a bit of turquoise or purple creates interest in your shadows.
Step 7: Remember to leave soft edges at the bottom where the leaves come together and where they meet with the background. Hard edges can be wet and pat with a towel to soften the lines.
Step 8: Wet the negative space or background and drop in colours. I have used my warm colours closer and cool towards the back of the scene. I have used lighter tones towards the back against lighter leaves, as well as less contrast, to create depth. Most contrast should be in your focal point.
Step 9: Remove masking flued and soften hard lines with a damp brush without losing all-white highlights. The rotten edges of leaves are done in shady side with a grey mix of warm colours and sunlit side with a light tone grey mix of the 3 cool colours.